What we're going to build:
In this tutorial we're going to build a lasercut acrylic frontplate for an Adafruit 16x2 LCD + Keypad Shield (Arduino version). Due to a simple adjustment, you'll have comfortable access to all the keypad buttons.
If you don't have a lasercutter, use lasercutting services like ponoko or formulor to get the necessary parts. You can find the regarding lasercut template file below. Beside the lasercut-plates, you'll also need some screws, nuts, tactile buttons and plastic glue to realize this project.
Why I came to this idea?
When I bought my first Arduino and an Adafruit Display+Keypad Shield, it felt quite uncomfortable to work with all those loose parts on my desk. All the cases, bottomplates and frontplates that were available to buy didn't fit to my expectations, since they are not compatible to each other. I wanted to have something with more style and flexibility. So I started to develop my own tinkerer's environment that helps fixing all needed parts and brings more style into weekend's tinkering sessions. So if you also want to add more style and comfort to your tinkering sessions, read on ;)
Please note:
This frontplate is the first of several elements I developed. For example, it's compatible to a baseplate that holds an arduino uno and a halfsize (+ fullsize) breadboard + your project's periphery (e.g. knobs, sensors).
Find the instructable for the Fluxgarage "Tinkerer's Baseplate" here.
www.adafruit.com/products/716 (POSITIVE DISPLAY)
www.adafruit.com/products/772 (BLUE AND WHITE)
The actual frontplate is supposed to be made of 3mm lasercut acrylic glass elements. You could also try to use a different material, as long as it is 3mm thick. The template I created only works with that height, because it affects the length of the screws, buttons etc. To get the elements, you can use a lasercut service like Ponoko (best for american and international users) or Formulor (best for german and european users).
Using Ponoko:
Using Formulor:
If you ordered the “Acrylic – White” material like it is shown in the pictures, it makes sense to color the engraved areas on top of the buttons and the FluxGarage-Branding above the display. To do this, just roughly follow the lines of the engraving with a black CD-marker pen or a similar pen that is suitable to write on plastic materials and dries quickly. Wipe away the overlapping color with a benzine-soaked piece of cotton.
When you've got your acrylic plates, make sure you have everything you need. Sometimes the small button-parts get lost during the laser cutting production process. In most cases the tiny button-parts are put into a small plastic bag when they arrive. But don't worry, each button part is included twice in the template file, just to prevent missing parts.
Each of the 5 keypad buttons is made of three arcylic layers, glued onto each other:
If you have all the needed button-parts, proceed as follows with each button:
Please note:
As you see in the pictures, I replaced the button's white upper parts with similar black colored parts. This is just a styling issue. If you want to do the same, you could order two p1-plates in different colors, for example. I did this because I have two display shields and I exchanged the buttons to have more contrast.
Now it's time to solder the Adafruit LCD+Keypad Shield and take care of the following adjustments instructions:
Please keep in mind: Due to the fact that the display shield uses the Arduino-Pins A4 and A5 for data-transmission, these pins are no more available for use in your projects.
Apart from the exceptions above, solder the shield as described in the Adafruit assembly instructions:
When both the acrylic frontplate elements and the LCD+Keypad shield are prepared, it's time for the marriage.
If you used the stacking headers and if you want to use the unassigned Arduino pins for your projects, it will make your life easier to apply a simple pinout label.
Last but not least, let's add some legs to make the display shield be able to stand alone. Optionally you can add the bottom plate that is included in the lasercut template to protect your Arduino board.
Please note:
You should put some self adhesive silicone pads under the bottom screws to avoid scratching your table. Also, there's a more sophisticated option to proceed with the bottomplate. Have a look at the following step.
As mentioned in the introduction, I've also created a compatible bottomplate that can hold your arduino, a halfsize (+ fullsize) breadboard, your project's periphery (e.g. knobs, sensors) and sure, the display-shield + frontplate. This environment fills the gap between prototyping and boxing up your projects.