Monoprice Modern Retro Detachable Cable Mod

using a small flat screwdriver, i used a jewelers set, pry the sticker up to remove it. do not throw away. you will put it back on at the end.

it will just pull off after you pry it up.

there are 3 small phillips screws that need to be removed. a precision/jewelers set works best.

at this point you can cut the wires from the cable, near the black flex connector. you want the small wires to remain to know which wire is what.

the copper wire is the (-) negative combined from the left and right speaker. in this picture it combines with the white from the left speaker and is under the top wax connection point. you will need to remove the wax (i just melted it with the soldering iron and desoldered the connection. wipe your tip after removing the wax.

the red wire in the cable is the right (+) positive/signal cable and is under the wax on the bottom of the picture. desolder this in the same manner listed above.

the blue wire in the cable is the left (+) positive/signal and is connected to the red wire coming from the left speaker. it has the black tubing connecting the blue and red. cut this just below the black tubing.

there is no glue or twisting needed just pull off. we need to get to the screws that hold the speaker to the headband.

notice the sticker that says "dynamic" on it. this denotes the orientation, the sticker is the back of the head side.

there are 4 phillips screws to remove.

the white is the (-) and the red the (+). cut each wire leaving some wire on the speaker to help you remember which connection is which for later.

this is again to show which wire is which.

red is right (+)

blue is left (+)

copper is left and right combined (-)

the left contact is the combined (-)

the right contact is the right (+)

the blue and white wires go to the left speaker. but the blue wire is connected to the red wire that goes to the left speaker.

these are the wires going to the left speaker that we cut earlier. it is easier to pull them out from the end cap side, but you can pull from either side.

take a drill bit (1/8") and enlarge the hole. i turned the bit by hand and it worked fine. i didn't want to get my drill out just for this.

i used some 22AWG solid wire i use on electronic projects, but you could use ethernet wire if you have a spare cable you don't mind cutting.

i will be using the blue for the left(+)

the red for right (+)

and black for the combined L&R (-)

run the blue and black wire through the hole you enlarged earlier.

strip back a section of the black wiretap the end, and a bit from the end as shown.

this is where we will connect the black to the (-) terminal and then the end to the (-) of the connector we are adding. you don't have to do it this way, it's my personal preference. you can always cut where i have the striped space and later connect both ends of the black wire to the terminal then the other small black wire to the connector.

i make a small loop in the black wire and solder to the connector on the left .

i also put a small piece of red electrical tape on the right side to denote where the red (+) wire will go.this is optional.

this is the connector i used. 3.5mm female stereo jack

you can use others but ensure it is a stereo female jack.

on this connector the long spade is the ground (-). the gold connector is right (+). the silver connector is the left (+).

i inserted the black through the hole in the spade and soldered the wire in place.

if you get another jack and it is not labeled you can use a multimeter and and aux cable to find which connector is the right/left/ground. plug in the aux cable to the jack. set your meter to ohms/continuity and touch one probe to the tip of the aux cable and see which connector makes a sound (this is the left (+)). the next ring down is the (right (+)). and the sleeve is the ground (-).

again on this connector the silver spade is the left/blue (+).

lastly the red wire goes to the gold spade.

i used liquid electrical tape. wax or hot glue will work too. just ensure you cover all the points on the connector and the headset points. this is to help eliminate a possible short.

this is to remind us which wire goes where after we desolder the wires.

where we removed the red wire there is a left over red tint and some more wax to help remind which wire goes where.

solder the red wire to red connection

and the black wire to the white connection.

after this you can reassemble the speaker to the headset. 4 phillips screws.

after your protectant dries on the wires.you can set up the jack for final assembly.

this jack had two wings on it that i cut off. also ensure you have space/clearance above the screw in the picture. i used super glue to attach this half to the connector. let dry for about 5 minutes. next we test

plug in an aux cable and play some music, we want to check if there are any loose connections before we put the cap back on.

i had to melt the little prongs and base a bit for my connector to fit properly.

i just used my soldering iron to melt them down. be sure to clean tip well after this.

test fit the end cap to ensure it will close, make adjustments if needed to the cap.

once it fits right then put some more super glue on the connector and the end cap.

install the 3 screws to hold the cap on.

aren't you glad you didn't throw this away. it should have enough adhesive to re-stick. if not, hot glue-don't super glue. if you super glue and have to fix something later then you will have to break the cap and headset to get to the connector.

this is why we test before supergluing the cap to the connector.

these will make the headphones sound better. they sound more spacious and are more comfortable too.

XL round pads there are pleather, velour, and sheepskin styles.