Converting your stock DJI Phantom 1 to a Phantom 1.5 – one of the best upgrades available for the DJI Phantom 1 – is now more affordable. The 40mm Battery Door v2.0 used for the conversion starts at just $34.99. This simple upgrade provides many benefits including more than doubling flight time, giving Phantom 1 flight times matching the newer DJI Phantom 2 and even the DJI Phantom 3.
The Phantom 1.5 provides an excellent videography platform for a GoPro and gimbal comparable. The Phantom 1.5's superior flight times of up to 25+ minutes rivalsthe more expensivePhantom 2 and stays aloft longer than the stock Phantom 1 to get just the right shot. Non-proprietary Phantom 1.5 5200mah batteries cost around $30 street price – compared to $129 for DJI's Intelligent Battery for Phantom 2 – so fly 5 times longer for the same price.
In addition, the Phantom 1 platform is more flexible and open than the proprietary systems that DJI implemented with the Phantom 2 and Phantom 3 – meaning you can customize it more.
The Phantom 1.5 provides an external USB port – allowing users to plug a computer directly into the Phantom to perform and eliminates the 10 gram stock USB wire inside the stock Phantom 1. Removing the wire makes the upgrade almost weight neutral since the 40mm Battery Door v2.0 weighs just 12 grams.
While the status light of the Phantom 1, stock, is mounted on the rear of the craft, requiring the craft be rotated to see the flight status light from the ground, the Phantom 1.5 design relocates the LED status light to the bottom – allowing a 360 degree view of flight status from the ground – improving operational safety and convenience for pilots.
The 40mm Battery Door from Brian Self Design, Inc. was the original Phantom 1.5 conversion kit, first offered in 2013. You can purchase the 40mm Battery Door v2.0 from Shapeways.com.
© 2015 Brian Self Design, Inc.
To do the Phantom 1.5 conversion you will need three (3) parts.
1) Purchase the 40mm Battery Door v2.0 from Shapeways from Brian Self Design. You can click on the link below to order.
(Lead time through Shapeways can be 7-10 days. If a part is needed more urgently, contact the designer at Shapeways for assistance and availability.)
NOTE: A 40mm Battery Door v2.0 for FC40 is also available for converting the DJI Phantom FC40 to a
Phantom 1.5. The standard door WILL NOT FIT the FC40.
2) Phantom 2 Replacement Shell available from many DJI resellers. Rather than recommending one, just Google "Phantom 2 Replacement Shell" and you will find a number of resellers that sell them. You will be moving the guts of the Phantom 1 to the Phantom 2 shell. (It's easier than it sounds.)
3) Purchase a 4-pin male-to-female extension wire that will extend the USB/LED cable down to the Phantom 1.5 door. The vendor linked below can do shipments and the price is reasonable:
4-Pin Male-to-Female Extension Wire
4) To get the maximum flight times, replace the stock 8" props with 9" props. This alone will increase in flight time of up to 20%. This is not required, but recommended for the Phantom 1.5 conversion.
Note the key difference between the stock DJI Phantom 1 and the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell you will be moving the Phantom 1's components into.
The most notable difference is that the battery door of the Phantom 1 is in the FRONT of the craft, and the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell locates the battery door in the REAR of the craft. It is essential to keep this in mind throughout the conversion process.
You may find it helpful to take pictures (with your cell phone or other device) of your conversion throughout the process in order to document what you did to be able to look back to see what you did, or check your work and make sure everything is correct. This may come in handy particularly once the Phantom 1.5 is closed up in it's new shell and you're testing it and don't want to have to open it up unnecessarily to check a setting.
Taking pictures will also be important to document the orientation of the 4-pin extension wire (we'll cover this later) before the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell is closed up with the Phantom 1 components inside.
You should remove a total of 4 fasteners on each arm.
NOTE: If you need additional assistance, there are numerous YouTube videos providing details on opening
the DJI Phantom 1 shell.
In order not to get tangled up in the GPS unit mounted mounted in the top half of the Phantom 1 shell, disconnect it from the NAZA for the duration of the project and set the top half of the Phantom 1 shell aside until reassembly. It's recommended to take a quick picture of how the GPS plugs into the NAZA so that you can refer to it if need be during reassembly.
Once you've successfully opened the Phantom 1 shell (as shown on the left), it is recommended that you lay the Phantom 1 next to the opened Phantom 2 Replacement Shell.
As mentioned previously, it's important to keep the orientation of the Phantom 1 shell and the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell correct. The Phantom 1 shell's battery door is in the FRONT of the craft, and the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell is located in the REAR of the craft.
Laying out the two shells side-by-side as depicted here is very helpful and will eliminate confusion and simplify the conversion process.
Remove the rubberized protective tape from the back of the USB/LED board. Place it in the sorting tray.
Loosen the two screws fastening the USB/LED board to the LED light cover on the exterior of the Phantom 1. The screw essential sandwiches the board to the exterior light cover on the outside. These screws are VERY small and it may take some care to remove them. DO NOT LOSE THEM, they will be difficult to replace.
Do not unplug the motors, motherboard or ESCs from each other. LEAVE ALL WIRES CONNECTED UNLESS INSTRUCTIONS INDICATE OTHERWISE.
NOTE: Leaving components (motors, ESCs, NAZA, motherboard, etc.) connected will preserve your original connections and avoid many potential problems of accidentally switching motors or wires. The labels you put on earlier will help verify the order of the motors is correct.
Label all the motors with tape. You do not want to have the motor order or orientation get mixed up, or you will have big problems when you go to fly. So label them – preferably with tape so they won't fall off.
IMPORTANT: Take a picture of the original order of the motors in your own Phantom 1 so that you can insure the same order is maintained. This will allow you to verify things when all the components are moved to the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell and you don't have the original configuration to refer back to.
There are 4 hex head bolts on each of the motors. (The four screws are shown in the second photo. The screw driver is loosening one of the shell hex head bolts in the photo.) Remove the 4 motor hex head bolts that secure the motors, but leave the motors resting on each arm until the rest of the components have been loosened.
NOTE: Use a compartment in your sort tray for containing all the motor mount screws. (The four screws are seen next to the loose motor in the second picture.)
The directional red and green LEDs located on each arm on the ESC board (each engine has a controller board) and these are located on each arm. Remove the two screws securing each ESC board on each arm to the LED light covers on the exterior of each arm.
Because the ESC board screws are a different size, it is recommended that a different compartment in your sort tray is used, or a different plastic bag.
Also contain the four plastic LED covers that mount to the under side of the quad's arms.
Verify that all components are loosened from the Phantom 1 Shell.
IMPORTANT: THIS IS THE MOST CRITICAL STEP
With the two shells still side-by-side as described previously:
PICK UP ALL OF THE COMPONENTS TOGETHER LIKE A GIANT "X" PATTERN AND MOVE ALL THE COMPONENTS AT THE SAME TIME TO THE PHANTOM 2 REPLACEMENT SHELL FROM THE PHANTOM 1 SHELL. MAKE SURE TO KEEP ALL MOTORS IN THE PROPER ORDER AND THAT THE "X" STAYS IN TACT AS IT'S MOVED.
Lay the motors in each of the arms and place the motherboard loosely on top of the Phantom 2's mounts.
The photo shows all the components moved over to the Phantom 2 Replacement Shell.
IMPORTANT: The Phantom 2 Replacement Shell has only one antenna mount instead of two that were in the Phantom 1. This is the only difference as far as fastening the components. The antenna can be safely fastened with one screw, HOWEVER, it's proximity to the power supplies and the motherboard warrants special attention.
IMPORTANT: It is recommended that the antenna board be wrapped in electrical tape in order to prevent the board from contacting the motherboard or power supplies.
Plug in the GPS to the appropriate port on the NAZA. Refer to the photo you took earlier if need be.
Install the USB/LED board on the 40mm Battery Door v2 in the custom hole at the bottom of the 40mm Battery Door. Place the LED light cover on the exterior of the 40m Battery Door v2 (as shown in the third picture). From the inside, line up the USB/LED board and insert the two fine screws through the USB/LED board so that the threads tighten in to the external LED light cover.
It's advisable to work on a smooth surface, preferably with a lip or edge on it, in case a small screw slips away from you in the process. These little screws can bounce – so containing them from rolling or bouncing away while you're positioning them is helpful.
TIP #1: The process can be eased by using a small Philips screw driver bit (like those used by some screw driver sets or such as a drill bit) rather than a long screw driver. You can then finger tighten and then use needle nose pliers on the bit if there is a need to make it tighter.
TIP #2: A strategic piece of scotch tape to hold the external cover in place, or hold the USB/LED board in place while you insert the small screws can give you a "third hand" that may be helpful as you line things up.
Plug in the USB/LED stock wire into the 4-pin extension wire that you located at the battery bay opening, reviewing the photo taken earlier of the orientation of the 4-pin extension wire and how it plugs into the NAZA, so as not to plug the USB/LED light reversed. A little electrical tape may be useful to bind the 4 individual pins into a single "socket." Wrap a single layer of electrical tape around it.
Once connected, you may optionally tape the 4-pin extension wire and the short wire of USB/LED board together.
Inserting the 40mm Battery Door on the Phantom 1.5: Place the two clasps first on the bottom ledge of the new battery opening on the shell and pivot the 40mm Battery Door upwards until the upper clasp snaps into place. The 40mm Battery Door latches are very secure when latched properly.
The 40mm Battery Door latching system has been tested and is very secure. It is capable of holding the weight of the craft – as long as the door is held from the SIDES, but not the top and bottom. (Still take care to keep a hand under the craft if you decide to test this.)
Removing the 40mm Battery Door from the Phantom 1.5: While the 40mm Battery Door latches securely, it also releases easily. To remove, lightly press the top-center portion of the 40mm Battery Door, releasing the upper clasp, and pivot down to open.
FINAL TIPS:
IMPORTANT: Before flying the newly upgraded Phantom 1.5 calibrate it according to DJI's owner's manual. Follow all ordinary preflight procedures that you would for the Phantom 1.
You now have a Phantom 1.5 that can utilize larger capacity single batteries or twin DJI 2200mah batteries with a parallel Y-Adapter for TWICE the flight time of a stock DJI Phantom 1.
The 5200mah battery listed below has equivalent power to the proprietary DJI Intelligent Battery, but has a street price under $30, has the XT60 preinstalled and is plug-and-play.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewit...
Thank you for your interest and your business!
DISCLAIMER: While every effort has been taken to make sure that these instructions are complete and accurate, it is the responsibility of each pilot to verify the safety of all components and their craft and to make sure the craft is airworthy prior to flight.
Brian Self Design, Inc. offers these instructions as a courtesy and as-is, but is not responsible for errors, omission or problems arising from their use or any damages resulting from the use of the components or instructions.